Tso-Moriri Lake Circuit
The area traversed by the Manali leh road, and containing the drainage basins
of Tso-moriri and other lakes is known as Rupshu. Here, the Zanskar range is
transformed into bare rolling many-hued hills divided by open high altitude
valley scoured by dust-devils. It is a landscape unlike any other in Ladakh
-or elsewhere in India.
Permits must be taken from the Deputy Commissioner (head of the district administration)
in Leh, but citizens of Pakistan, Bangladesh, SriLanka and Myanmar will be issued
permits only with the prior approval of the Ministry of Home Affairs, Government
of India, New Delhi. Foreign diplomats and members of the United Nations and
other international organizations are required to apply for permits tothe Ministry
of External Affairs, Government of India, New Delhi.
The first circuit follows the Manali road over the Taglang-la as far as Debring,
a Chang-pa camping place. From here it strikes off east on a rough traks across
the basin of the twin lakes Startsapuk-Tso (Fresh water) and the Polokangka-la
(about 16,500 feet/ 5,030m) to Sumdo in the Puga valley - near the site of old
sulphur mines, then over a roller-coaster track to the head of the Tso-moriri,
and on to Korzok, a quarter of the way along the lake's 20 km length.
The alternative route, instead of leaving the Indus at Upshi, carries on up
the river, as it snakes its way through a gorge between the Ladakh and Zanskar
ranges, to the village of Chumathang, where there is a hot spring. At Mahe,
some 17 km further, the road crosses from the north to the south bank of the
river by bridge; it then follows the Puga stream up to join the first circuit
at Sumdo.
Korzok, situated at 15,000 feet (4,572 m) with its dozen or so houses and its
gompa appearing like a mirage among the barren hills, is the only permanent
settlement in Rupshu; otherwise the region is inhabited only by nomadic Chang-pa
herdspeople. The Rupshu Chang-pa live in tents all the year round, moving in
accordance with an old-established annual routine between the pastures the exist
wherever an occasional stream carrying snowmelt from the heights makes possible
the growth of grass, scanty indeed, but reportedly highly nutritious. The few
barley-fields at Korzok must be among the highest cultivation in the world,
but there is no guarantee that the crop will ripen every year.
