The
faces and physique of the Ladakhis, and the clothes they wear, are more akin
to those of Tibet and Central Asia than of India. The original population may
have been Dards, an Indo-Aryan race from down the Indus. But immigration fromTibet,
perhaps a millennium or so ago, largely overwhelmed the culture of the Dards
and obliterated their racial characteristics.
In eastern and central Ladakh, today's population seems to be mostly of Tibetan
origin. Further west, in and arond Kargil, there ismuch in the people's appearance
that suggests a mixed origin. The exception to this generalizationis the Arghons,
a community of Muslims in Leh, the descendants of marriages between local women
and Kashmiri or Central Asian merchants.
Buddhism reached Tibet from India via Loadkah, and there are ancient Buddhist
rock engravings all over the ragion, even in areas like Dras and the lower Suru
Valley which today are inhabited by an exclusively Muslim population. The divide
between Muslim, and Buddhis Ladakh passes through Mulbekh (on the Kargil-Leh
road) and between the villages of Parkachick and Rangdum in the Suru Valley,
though there are pockets of Muslim population further east, in Padum (Zanskar),
in Nubra Valley and in and around Leh.
The approach to Buddhist village is invariable marked by mani walls which are
long chest-high structures faced with engraved stones bearing the mantrra im
mane padme hum and by chorten, commemorative cairns, like stone pepper-pots.