Mountain Climbing in Ladakh
The area most frequented by foreign climbers is the Nun-Kun Massif in the Great
Himalayan Range. Its easy accessiblity from the Kargil-Pudum road and the shortest
possible approach march to the base camps makes this massif the most attractive
climbing destination in the Great Himalaya.
The
area nearest to Leh is Stok-khangri Massif in the Zanskar mountains, south of
Leh. The base camp for the various peaks of this massif is about two days trek
from the village of Stok. Among its known peaks, Stok-khangri (6,150 m) is the
highes ; it offers a spectacular perspective to the central expanse of the Indus
valley which it dominates. Other peaks in the area include Gulap Khangri (5,900
m), Matho West (5,950m) and Kantak (5,275 m). The much higher Konglacha peak
(6,700m) lies south-west of Leh and is reached via Rubak on the first leg of
the Markha Valley trek from Stok. Many un-named peaks in the altitude range
of 5,500 metres and 6,400 metres are also available for climbing in the same
region. This entire area falls well outside the Inner Line, or restricted area.
North of Leh, across the Ladakh Range and the Nubra Valley, lies the Karokoram
range. It soars to a number of known peaks which are, however, within the restricted
area and so not freely accessible to foreign climbers except with special permission
from the Government of India. The most prominent summits in this range which
are accessible from various parts of the Nubra Vally include, Saser-I (7,415
m), Saser -II (7,513m ) and Saser III (7,495 m).
The climbing season extends from mid - May to mid -October, the ideal period
being from June to September because during this time only Ladakh remains unaffected
by the monsoon which holds sway over most of the Himalaya. Foreign climbing
expeditions are required to obtain permission from the Indian Mountaineering
Foundation for climbing all listed peaks.