The Golden Temple in Amritsar is the most exalted of all Sikh shrines, drawing
pilgrims from near and far fore centuries. The temple's story began some four
centuries ago when the third Sikh Guru Amar Das asked Guru Ram Das (who succeeded
him) to build a central place
for the congregation of the Sikhs. Guru Arjan Dev completed the work started
by Guru Ram Das in the 16th century. The gurdwara has four entrance doors, called
deoris, in all four directions-symbolic of the new faith that made no distinction
between caste and creed. People could enter and bow in any direction they preferred.
As one descends into the temple (unlike most temples, here one actually descends
as the structure is built below the level of the surrounding area), one is confronted
by the stunningly beautiful sanctum sanctorum glimmering in the water of the
holy tank that is flanked on all four sides by spotlessly clean marble walkways
and pavements.
The main structure rises from the center of the sacred pool and is approached
by a long causeway. The 52-meter, square-based Hari Mandir stands on a square
platform, its lower parts marble, and its upper portion fully covered with plates
of gilded copper. In the interior, on the ground, the Guru Granth Sahib (holy
book of the Sikhs) is placed under a jewel-studded canopy. On the first floor
is a small pavilion called the Shish Mahal (mirror room). It is ornamented with
pieces of mirrors inlaid in the ceiling and walls. Above is another smaller
pavilion. Exquisite murals adorn the walls of the pavilions, but other than
that, the emphasis is on simplicity.
Situated at the other end of the causeway connected to the Harmandir Sahib is
the Akal Takht. Literally, it means the eternal throne and
its building opposite the temple has a significance. While the temple stands
for the spiritual guidance, the Akal Takht symbolizes the dispensing of justice
and temporal activities. During the day, the Guru Granth Sahib is kept in the
temple and at night at the Akal Takht. Traditionally all Sikh warriors sought
blessings here before going for war.
As it has done for several centuries, the temple mirrors many images that are
dear to the devout. One sees the beautiful golden dome shimmering in the water.
One sees thousands of devotees praying and kneeling before the holy book. One
sees them touch the holy water and pour it over their foreheads. One sees people
streaming into the langar hall to partake of the common meal served lovingly
to all. Forming a soothing and beautiful soundtrack to all these activities
is the continuous kirtan (devotional) recitation that has provided solace to
so many.
If you take a short walk around the Golden Temple, you can visit several other
Gurdwaras that trace their links with the Gurus. Gurdwara Baba Atal Sahib and
the Shahidi martyr's shrine are important religious centers, each with its own
history. Amritsar played a pivotal role in India's quest for independence, and
no national monument has more significance than Jalianwala Bagh, a solemn, grim
reminder of one of the bloodiest chapters of India's freedom movement.
The 2000 Indians killed and wounded here in the indiscriminate firing by the
British on Baisakhi in 1919 was carnage that had nationwide ramifications, shaking
and enraging the whole country. Jalianwala Bagh commemorates the martyrs, keeping
the tragic episode in its historical context.